Rheem · Furnace troubleshooting
Setting gas manifold pressure
What is going on
You set manifold pressure after you have confirmed that supply pressure is within limits. Do not adjust the regulator on a bad supply, or you will chase your tail. I always read supply first with a calibrated manometer, then work on the manifold for both high fire and low fire. The regulator only has so much range, and when the flow needs a big change, the right answer is a different orifice, not cranking the screw. Gas work is for a licensed gas technician.
Likely causes
- Supply pressure outside the limits for adjustment
- Manifold pressure out of spec for the fuel type
- Regulator out of range for a large flow change
- Weak or lazy flame after conversion or altitude change
Check in this order
- Use a calibrated manometer to read the gas supply pressure
- Confirm supply is within limits maximum 10.5 in w.c. natural gas or 13.0 in w.c. LP, minimum 5 in w.c. natural gas or 11 in w.c. LP for adjustment
- Set manifold pressure to the high-fire and low-fire values for the gas type
- To adjust, remove the regulator cap; turn the screw clockwise to raise pressure or counterclockwise to lower it
- Replace the regulator cap securely
- Keep final manifold pressure within 0.3 in w.c. of the specified value
- For large flow changes, change the burner orifice size instead of the regulator
- Leak-check any disturbed fittings with an approved detector
Applies to: 96V and 96MDV gas furnaces
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Source: 96V installation instructions, p. 103. Written in our own words; check the manual for your exact model.
For licensed technicians. Gas, electrical and refrigerant work must be done by a qualified, licensed person. Shut off power and gas before servicing, never bypass a safety control, and follow the manufacturer’s manual for the exact model; it and local codes always take priority. HVACopedia is not affiliated with any manufacturer; brand and model names only identify the equipment.